THE Q & A SERIES - HOW TO SEW IN-SEAM POCKETS WITH FRENCH SEAMS
Hi Emily,
I don't have an overlocker, so like to use French seams whenever possible. Do you know if there's a way to sew in-seam pockets with French seams? I feel like it must be possible, but can't wrap my head around how to go about it.
Thank you,
Tammy
Sydney, Australia
Hi Tammy,
I love French seams too! I lived overseas for a couple of years and didn't want to overdo it with what I bought over there, so wanted to make do with a limited number of sewing machines and tools. Not having an overlocker reinstated my love for French seams! It was during this period that I learned how to sew in-seam pockets with French seams, and I ended up including this technique in The Rushcutter dress pattern.
I'm not sure if there's a more satisfying technique to learn than this! I get a thrill out of doing it every single time! I'm really excited to show you how to do it today!
A. Take one pair of the IN-SEAM POCKET pieces and match them to the notches on the FRONT, with wrong sides together. Pin in place. Before stitching, hold the panel up to your body and check the pocket placement. Move up or down, if necessary.
B. Stitch from the top of the IN-SEAM POCKET to the bottom, with a 6mm (¼in) seam allowance.
Trim back the seam allowance by half, from the top of the pocket to the bottom, leaving the remainder of the side seam untrimmed.
Press the seam allowance towards the IN-SEAM POCKET, before folding the pocket back towards the FRONT PANEL with right sides together - enclosing the raw edges inside the fold.
Stitch from the top of the pocket to the bottom with a 6mm (¼in) seam allowance.
Flip the IN-SEAM POCKETS away from the FRONT. Using your fingers, press the seam allowance towards the IN-SEAM POCKET before understitching* on each side.
*Understitching is when the seam allowance is stitched to a facing or binding, close to the seam edge. This helps the facing, binding (or similar) roll to the inside of the garment, preventing it from being seen on the outside of a garment.
Repeat process for the back of the dress, or in the case of The Rushcutter dress, the SIDE PANEL.
With wrong sides together, pin the SIDE PANEL to the FRONT PANEL on both sides. Pin up the seam, around the pocket, and then continue pinning the rest of the seam.
Stitch the pieces together with a 6mm (¼in) seam allowance. Clip into the corners between the IN-SEAM POCKET and the body of the dress, before trimming back the whole seam by half.
Please note: The row of stitching should not line up with the seam that joins the FRONT PANEL of the pattern to the IN-SEAM POCKET - it should lie about 6mm (¼in) away. These stitch lines will meet when the seam is complete.
Turn the dress inside out, and press the seams flat, now with right sides together. Pin and stitch the seam with a 6mm (¼in) seam allowance.
Press the seams and IN-SEAM POCKETS towards the FRONT PANEL.
And you're done! Beautifully finished in-seam pockets!
Happy sewing,
Emily
P.S. If you prefer following photo tutorials, you can find a photo version of this tutorial in the Rushcutter sew-along here.
P.S. Would you like to know what the Q & A series is all about? This page tells you a little bit more about the motive behind the series. Past issues from the Q & A series can be found here.
Don't have a question, but found this newsletter helpful? I'd love to hear from you! Get in touch and say hi.
What you’ve been making
Peppermint vintage-style skirt made by @smellslikevintage
Peppermint wrap top made by @ovella_designs
Acton dress made by @sew_the_line
Rushcutter dress made by @ms_becca_j
