THE Q & A SERIES

Using your bust measurements to select your size

I have a narrow back and upper chest but with an average bust. I try to adjust my toile to reflect this, as often I have to take in 2cm across the back. I'm a size 12/14. There is often excess fabric at the front and back neck whilst everywhere else fits well. The difficulty I have is in knowing how to get rid of the excess at the neck but not affecting the pattern elsewhere. I would value your advice.

- Iola
Caernarfon, Wales

Hi Iola,

Although it might feel like you are selecting the correct size due to how your garments fit from the bust down, it sounds like you need to start with a smaller size. Rather than making the neck smaller, what you will do is add more width for your bust, while the neck area and back section of the pattern will remain as they are.

SELECT YOUR SIZE

What I suggest you do is select your size according to your high bust measurement, rather than your full bust measurement. Then you can do a Full Bust Adjustment (FBA) to alter the bust section to match your measurements.

Your high bust is the area above your breasts, under your arms and your full bust is the fullest part of your chest. Find the difference between the two measurements.

If the difference is 2.5cm (1") your bust is an A cup, 5cm (2") it's a B cup, 7.5cm (3") is a C cup and so on.

Go back to your high bust measurement and add 5cm (2"). This is what your bust measurement would be if you were a B cup and therefore the size you should be choosing from the pattern.

For example, let's say your upper bust measures 81cm (32"). Add 5cm (2") to this measurement to find out what size your bust measurement falls into on the In the Folds sizing chart (and what size you would be if you had B cup breasts). 81cm + 5cm = 86cm which corresponds to a size C.

As a front piece is normally cut on the fold, you need to take the measurement you will be adding and divide it by two.

MAKE THE ADJUSTMENT

The FBA process will depend on what pattern you are making. We have a number of FBA tutorials you can take a look at and apply to your pattern:

More fit resources

If fit is something you're working on improving, I recommend joining Curated by ITF. As well as receiving early access to the latest In The Folds patterns, we teach you how to fit your own garments by providing a broad and accessible range of sewing resources. You also gain access to our Mighty Networks group, which is a beautiful online sewing community where you can ask questions about your fitting challenges and our team will be right there with you to help problem solve!

Happy sewing,

Emily